Tell me what it is doing. I will tell you if it is worth fixing.
Drop your number and a Master Electrician calls you back. If it is not worth a visit, I will say that on the phone.
Got it. Dmitry will call from (780) 904-3462.
Master Electrician #13824. Reply STOP to opt out anytime.
Appliance Repair in Edmonton If it runs on electricity, I can diagnose it
I got into appliance diagnostics during the COVID shutdowns, working alongside a used appliance shop. Washers, dryers, dishwashers, fridges, ranges. I test the electrical and control side, tell you exactly what failed, and tell you straight when the part is not worth buying. Master Electrician, 14 years in the trade.
Pick your machine
Six appliances, and what actually breaks on each one
Tap the one giving you trouble. You get what usually fails on it, what I test and in what order, and whether the repair is worth the money. Nothing is sent anywhere and there is no form in here.
No heat, heat that quits halfway through, a drum that turns but never dries, or a breaker that goes on the second cycle.
What usually failsA heating element, a thermal fuse, a cycling thermostat, or one leg of the 240V feed. A dryer running on one leg tumbles and never heats, which is why it looks like a dryer problem and is often a panel problem.
What I testBoth legs at the receptacle under load, the terminal block, the cord, element resistance, and the fuses and thermostats in the heater circuit before I touch a board.
The honest callElements and fuses are cheap and worth doing. A control board on a dryer past ten years usually is not.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
Will not start, fills but will not spin, stops mid cycle, or throws a code and locks the door.
What usually failsA door lock switch, a drain pump, a lid switch, a motor control, or the outlet it is plugged into. On a front loader the door lock is the single most common no start.
What I testSupply voltage and ground at the receptacle, the lock and lid circuits, pump winding, then the board last. Codes point at a symptom, not always at the part.
The honest callPumps, switches and locks are worth replacing. A main board plus a motor control on the same machine is usually where I tell you to stop.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
Dead panel, will not drain, will not heat, or it trips the kitchen circuit when it hits the dry cycle.
What usually failsThe junction box connection under the unit, a drain pump, a heating element, or a door latch switch. Under counter connections are a common failure point because they get made once and never looked at again.
What I testThe feed and the junction box first, then the latch and the element, then the board. If it trips on the dry cycle it is almost always the element or a ground fault in it.
The honest callA pump or a latch is worth doing. A board and a pump together on a builder grade unit past eight years is not.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
Warm box, running constantly, not running at all, or the garage fridge that quits every time something else on that circuit starts.
What usually failsA start relay or capacitor, a defrost heater or timer, a thermostat, a condenser fan, or the circuit itself. The single most common call I get on a fridge is not the fridge.
What I testVoltage and neutral integrity at the outlet under load, the whole circuit rather than just that one device, then start components, defrost circuit and fans.
The honest callRelays, fans, thermostats and defrost parts are worth doing. A sealed refrigerant fault is not mine to open and on an older unit it is usually the end of the machine.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
One element dead, oven will not heat, the display is out, or the whole thing is dark.
What usually failsA surface element or its receptacle block, a bake or broil element, an oven sensor, an infinite switch, or one leg of the 240V supply. Half a range working is nearly always a lost leg.
What I testBoth legs at the range receptacle and at the breaker, the terminal block, element resistance, and the sensor reading against what the board expects.
The honest callElements, sensors and switches are worth doing. A relay board on a range past twelve years usually is not, and I will say so before you order it.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
Wall oven with no heat, a microwave hood with a dead panel, or a built in unit that trips as soon as it preheats.
What usually failsA bake element, a door switch, a thermal cutout, or the hard wired connection in the cabinet behind the unit. Built in appliances hide their junction boxes, which is where I look first.
What I testThe hard wired feed and its box, the cutouts and door switches, the element, then the control. On a trip at preheat I am looking for a ground fault in the element.
The honest callElements, switches and cutouts are worth doing. A built in unit with a dead control is a real decision, because the replacement has to fit the opening.
Service Call $180That covers the trip and the first hour. If the fix runs longer, you get the number before I start, not after.
The honesty rule, as a tool
Repair, or put the money into a new one
This is the call I make out loud on every job, so you may as well have it before I get there. Two taps. Age of the machine, and what the part is going to cost. The verdict is my rule, not an industry standard, and it is the same rule whether it makes me money or not.
How old is the appliance?
What is the part going to cost?
Pick an age and a part cost
Two taps and you get the same answer I would give you standing in your kitchen.
Why a rule at all. A $300 to $400 board on a machine that is already past ten years buys you maybe another eighteen months. I would rather you spend twice that on a new unit with a factory warranty and be done. The premium answer is the outcome that lasts, not the invoice that is bigger.
The honest boundary
What I fix, and what I hand to the guy with the right ticket
Most companies will not tell you where their licence stops. Mine stops in two places, and you should know both before I show up. Naming it is not a limitation. It is the reason you can trust the rest of the list.
Mine, under licence #13824
The electrical and control side of any major household appliance.
120V and 240V appliance circuits, breakers, receptacles and cords
Terminal blocks and the hard wired connections behind built in units
Heating elements, thermal fuses, cutouts and thermostats
Motors, start relays, capacitors, pumps and fans
Door switches, lid switches, latches, timers and control boards
Diagnosing whether the fault is the appliance or the circuit feeding it
Not mine, and I will say so
Two things go to a certified trade, every time, no exceptions.
Gas trains, gas valves and burner assemblies on a gas dryer, gas range or gas oven. Gasfitter is a compulsory certification trade in Alberta, which means only a certificate holder or a registered apprentice may do that work.
Sealed refrigerant systems in a fridge, freezer or air conditioner. Federal law is direct about it. Only a certified person may install, service, leak test or charge a refrigeration system.
One number to call, one invoice, no nickel and diming
You are not looking for the cheapest trip. You are looking for one trade who answers, shows up, does not pad the hours and does not surprise your maintenance budget in March.
Single point of contact. You call me, not a queue
Photos of every unit and what was done, so you have a record for the owner
Tenant coordination handled, so you are not the middle man
Electrical, appliance and lighting on the same visit instead of three trades
Same 5 person crew, no subcontractors
$120Service call rate on property management accounts.
The fridge one is the whole reason this page exists
Shelby replaced the outlet herself before I got there. It was not the outlet. That is what an appliance call usually looks like. Swipe for the rest.
These guys are top tier. Professional, kind, and very knowledgeable. They came in, asked what happened, and quickly diagnosed the cause of the issue. Our fridge had stopped working in the outlet it was plugged into. We thought it was the outlet itself, so we replaced it, but it didn't fix anything. When Dmitry came, he suspected it was a loose neutral. He was correct. He fixed the issue and also cleaned and checked all of the other breakers in the box for us. He even explained what happened and how we can prevent it from happening again. Highly recommend this company for all electrical needs.
Shelby Nelson · Google review · May 2, 2026
Dmitry was 10/10 to work with from start to finish. He was able to diagnose a problem in our rental property and have it fixed the same day. Our tenant was very impressed with his work, professionalism, and cleanliness. We will definitely work with Raydn going forward and it is with the utmost confidence that we would recommend their services.
Tom T. · Google review · Sep 19, 2025
I highly recommend this electrical company! I've used them for a couple of jobs around my home, including repairing my kitchen lights and fixing a wall outlet that had stopped working. The service was professional, reliable, and completed to a high standard. Communication was excellent throughout the process, and the work was done efficiently and with great attention to detail. It's clear they take pride in their craftsmanship and customer service. If you're looking for an electrician you can trust, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
Not the gas side. Gasfitter is a compulsory certification trade in Alberta, so the gas train, the valve and the burner assembly belong to a ticketed gasfitter and I will not touch them. What I do work on is the electrical and control side of that same machine. The cord, the receptacle, the terminal block, the motor, the ignition control, the timer and the board. If the fault turns out to be on the gas side, I tell you that and you keep your money.
Do you work on fridges?
The electrical and control side, yes. Compressor start components, relays, boards, defrost heaters, thermostats, door switches, fans, cords and the circuit feeding it. What I do not do is open a sealed refrigerant system, because federal law says only a certified person may install, service, leak test or charge one. Most garage fridge and beer fridge calls I get are not sealed system faults anyway. They are a loose neutral or a shared circuit.
What does a visit cost?
A residential service call is $180. That covers the trip and the first hour, which is enough time to find most faults. If the fix runs longer than the hour, you get the number before I start, not after. Property management accounts run at a $120 service call rate.
What if the part costs more than the appliance is worth?
Then I say so. If a control board is $300 to $400 on a unit that is already past ten years, I would rather you spend twice that on a new machine with a factory warranty than hand me the money for a repair that buys you eighteen months. That is the whole point of the honesty rule. The premium answer is the outcome that lasts, not the invoice that is bigger.
Why is an electrician doing appliance work at all?
I got into appliance diagnostics during the COVID shutdowns, working alongside a used appliance shop. Tearing down machines all day teaches you where they actually fail. Most of what kills an appliance is electrical, and that is the half most appliance techs are weakest at, the same way most appliance faults are the half an electrician usually skips.
Can you tell me over the phone if it is worth fixing?
Sometimes. If you can give me the model number, the age and what it is doing, I will tell you on the phone whether it is worth a visit at all. I would rather talk you out of a service call than take $180 to confirm what you already suspected.
Do you handle multiple units for a property manager?
Yes, and that is the version of this that actually works. One point of contact, one invoice, photos of every unit, and the tenant coordination handled so you are not the middle man. Same crew every time, no subcontractors.
What areas do you cover?
Edmonton and the surrounding area, the same radius as the rest of my electrical work. Farther out is possible for a property management account with several units in one trip.
One licensed roof, every trade
Whatever the callout turns into, the same Master Electrician crew handles it on the spot. No waiting on a sub.
