The LED retrofit guide

Everything a lighting salesman would rather explain over the phone, written down where you can check it

No pitch in this one. This is the teaching page. If you read it and then hire somebody else, you will at least know which questions to ask them. Dmitry Naboka, Master Electrician #13824, 14 years in the trade.

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Chapter 1

Where the watts actually go

A four lamp T8 troffer, today

  • Four T8 tubesthe part you can see
  • Electronic ballastits cut, plus heat
  • Total at the panel110 W to 132 W
  • T12 on magnetic144 W to 192 W

The same opening, after

  • LED tubes on the old ballastabout 70 W
  • LED tubes, ballast removedabout 60 W
  • New LED panel40 W to 55 W
  • Light aimed down, not aroundmore of it lands on the floor

The three conversion paths on one four lamp opening

Leave the ballast in, tube swap

70 W a fixture

Fastest. The ballast is still drawing and still going to fail.

Pull the ballast, wire the sockets direct

60 W a fixture

One more hour a fixture. Nothing left in there to fail.

New fixture, one for one

40 to 55 W a fixture

Best light and best optics. Highest price.

From 110 to 132 W. Your ballast factor decides which end you are on.

Existing four lamp systems, drawn to scale

Metal halide, 400 W lamp465 W
T12, magnetic ballast192 W
T8, high ballast factor132 W
T8, normal ballast factor110 W
LED tube on the old ballast70 W
LED tube, ballast removed60 W

Same bars, same ratios as the sourced table below. The metal halide is a high bay, not a troffer, and it is here so the spread across everything I find in Alberta is on one picture.

T12 on magnetics to a new LED fixture

71 to 79%

less power a fixture

From 144 to 192 W down to 40 to 55 W. The widest honest gap in commercial lighting, and the reason T12 buildings are the easiest ones to quote.

Existing system watts per lamp, including ballast loss. The four lamp figures are sourced and the per lamp figures are derived from them.
Existing techEfficient endLeast efficient endBasis
T12, magnetic ballast36 W a lamp, 144 W on a four lamp48 W a lamp, 192 W on a four lampSourced at four lampGreat Lakes Energy lighting wattage guideUSDA Forest Service fluorescent retrofit study
T8, electronic ballast27.5 W a lamp, 110 W on a four lamp33 W a lamp, 132 W at high ballast factorSourced at four lampGreat Lakes Energy lighting wattage guide
T5HO60 W a lamp65 W a lampI have not verified this one and I flag it in the calculator
Metal halide, 400 W lampabout 458 W systemup to 465 W systemLamp catalogueHalco HID lamp catalogHalco EMHID ballast catalog
High pressure sodium, 400 W lampabout 465 W systemabout 480 W systemLamp catalogueHalco HID lamp catalog

Six and eight lamp fixtures are a proportional estimate. Here is exactly how the calculator handles what it does not know.

No primary table found, so it is labelled an estimate

Not quietly scaled and passed off as sourced

Not sure what you have? It uses the T8 worst case, 132 W

Under promise, never over.

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Chapter 2

A tube throws light in a circle. Your floor is not a circle.

This is the single most useful thing to understand, because it is why a lower wattage fixture can put more light on the ground and why comparing tube lumens to tube lumens misleads you.

Fluorescent radiates 360 degrees

A share of the output fires up into the inside of the fixture, bounces off a reflector that is now thirty years old and dusty, and a chunk of it never leaves. What you paid for and what reaches the floor are two different numbers.

Green Light Connexions effective lumens paper

LED is directional from the start

The boards face down. Less of the output is spent lighting the inside of your fixture. That is why a 50 W panel can beat a 110 W troffer on delivered light instead of just matching it.

So ask for foot candles on the floor, not lumens on a box

Any honest lighting proposal tells you the target light level for the task and how it will be measured. IES publishes recommended levels by space type. I meter the before number on every job so the after number means something.

IES recommended light levels compilation

Chapter 3

What a ballast is, and why you are paying either to keep it or remove it

It regulates current to the lamps

A fluorescent tube on its own would draw current until it destroyed itself. The ballast limits it. That is the whole job. It also runs warm, and warm electronics age.

It is the part that fails, not the tube

Call it 60,000 hours. On a shop at 3,650 hours a year that is a service call on the calendar whether you planned it or not. Add the lamps at roughly 24,000 hours each and you can price out your own maintenance without me.

USDA Forest Service fluorescent retrofit study

Which is why the cheap retrofit is a decision, not a discount

Type A leaves the ballast in. You save less power and you keep the part that was going to break. That is a legitimate choice on a building you are selling in two years. It is a bad choice on one you are keeping. I will install either, I just will not call them the same product.

And on 347 V it may not be your choice at all

On 347 V it may not be your choice at all.

Over 150 V to ground

Disconnect and reconnect it and STANDATA 24-ECB-030 calls it a new luminaire

New luminaire means disconnecting means required

The bulletin extends that to energy conservation retrofits

Most commercial buildings here are 347 V.

Alberta STANDATA 24-ECB-030

And the fixture has to be relabelled either way

Field modifying a certified luminaire voids its certification. That is a code based argument for replacement, not a preference.

Replace the fixture

Nothing to prove later

  • Comes certified and labelled from the factory
  • No relabelling obligation lands on you

Retrofit a kit in

Legal, with conditions

  • The kit must be certified for that exact housing, per STANDATA 24-ECB-002
  • Every fixture needs a new label, per CSA C22.2 No. 250.1
  • Cut one up without doing both and its certification is void

Replacement sidesteps the whole problem, which is a code based argument, not just a preference. I price the label either way. Most low bids do not.

CSA C22.2 No. 250.1Alberta STANDATA 24-ECB-002

Chapter 4

Life, fade, and the number that is actually on the spec sheet

What the ratings mean in plain language.
TermWhat it meansWhy you care
L7070 percent of original output remainingThe honest way to state LED life. A curve, not a death date.
50,000 hoursThe hour count that L70 is quoted at on most commercial productAt 3,650 hours a year that is about 13 years before you are at 70 percent.
Lumen depreciation on fluorescentThe same fade, rarely publishedYour eyes track down with the room, so nobody notices until somebody meters it.
Mean lumens on HIDAverage output across the lamp life, not the initial ratingProbe start metal halide holds about 64 percent of its initial rating and pulse start about 77. Sizing an LED against the initial number oversizes it.Green Light Connexions effective lumens paperHalco HID lamp catalog

A 400 W metal halide, initial rating against what the room gets

Initial rating on the box

36,000 lm probe start, 42,000 lm pulse start

What a quote uses when nobody is checking which one you have.

Probe start, in service

about 64 percent of its own rating, near 23,000 lm

What the room is really getting a year or two in.

Pulse start, in service

about 77 percent of its own rating, near 32,000 lm

These mean figures are what I size the LED against.

Size on the initial rating and you buy an LED that is too big and costs too much.

This is why I meter the room before I quote it. If your warehouse was designed for 30 foot candles and it is sitting at 12, the fair comparison is not old watts against new watts. It is what you are actually getting against what you are actually paying for.

Dmitry Naboka, Master Electrician #13824, 14 years in the trade

Chapter 5

Cold, flicker, hum, and the reasons that never show up on a bill

Cold kills fluorescent output

Fluorescent in the cold

Output drops

  • Worst on open, unheated fixtures
  • Gets dimmer every winter

LED in the cold

Does not do that

  • Runs a touch more efficiently cold
  • Same light in January as in July

Loading docks

Unheated shops

Cold storage

Parkades

Anything on the wrong side of an overhead door in January. If your dock gets dimmer every winter, the tubes are not the problem. I am giving you the direction, not a percentage, because the size of the drop depends on the fixture and I have not metered yours.

Lighting Research Center 2x4 thermal study

Instant on, no strobe, no buzz

No warm up. No flicker under a spinning chuck, which is a genuine safety point in a machine shop, not a marketing one. No hum over a quiet office. This is the part people comment on after the job and it is not on the savings calculation anywhere.

Colour temperature, pick it once

4000 K for offices, hallways and retail. 5000 K for warehouses, shops and yards. Showrooms want high colour rendering so paint reads true, which is a different spec entirely. HPS sits around CRI 20 to 24, which is why everything in an old lot looks orange.

IES recommended light levels compilation

Chapter 6

Controls, where the extra savings actually hide

And the rule that keeps this honest. Control savings apply to the load that is left after the fixtures are changed, never on top of it. Adding the two percentages together is how a lighting quote ends up promising more savings than the building uses.

up to 76%in a parkadeField measured occupancy control savings in a parking garage. Long hours, low occupancy, which is the ideal case.PNNL-21923 lighting control field study
about 37%on a retail lotSame study, outdoor retail parking. Less dramatic because the lot is occupied through the evening.PNNL-21923 lighting control field study
dependson the tube you installSensor compatibility with LED tubes is product specific and the manufacturers publish it. I check before I order.LEDVANCE SubstiTUBE sensor compatibility

Occupancy sensors in low traffic aisles

Back racking, mezzanines, storage rooms, parkades, stairwells. Anywhere the lights are on because nobody wants to walk in the dark, not because work is happening.

Daylight harvesting near skylights and glazing

A row of fixtures under a skylight running at full output at noon in June is money burning. This is the cheapest control win in most Alberta warehouses.

Zone switching, which is often just wiring

Sometimes the fix is not a sensor at all, it is that the whole shop is on two switches. Splitting the zones costs less than sensors and gets used every day.

Chapter 7

What happens to the old stuff, and why it is legally your problem

Your old ballasts might be hazardous waste and they are legally yours

Magnetic ballasts made before 1980 are PCB waste, Class 9 UN2315, and the building owner is legally responsible for them. I count them, photograph the labels, manifest them, and route them through Aevitas in Edmonton under EPEA approval 134-05-00.

The Certificate of Recycling goes in your turnover package. Tubes are mercury, and the commercial Eco Station fee is $1.00 a tube. The Eco Station will not take PCB ballasts from a business at all.

Environment and Climate Change Canada, PCB rules for electrical contractorsAlberta PCB checklistAevitas Edmonton, EPEA approval 134-05-00Edmonton Eco Station accepted items and fees

Tubes are mercury

They go to the Eco Station on the commercial fee schedule, a dollar a tube. Box them as they come down, do not stack them behind the building.

Edmonton Eco Station accepted items and fees

Ask for the paperwork, from anybody

Whoever does your retrofit, ask what happens to the ballasts and ask for the manifest. If the answer is vague, that material is going somewhere you do not want your building name attached to. I put the Certificate of Recycling in the turnover package as a matter of course.

Aevitas Edmonton, EPEA approval 134-05-00

Straight answers

Six questions from the guide

How much power does a four lamp fluorescent troffer actually use?

On a normal ballast factor electronic ballast

110

W

And up to, on a high ballast factor one

132

W

Same fixture, same four tubes, 20 percent apart.

  • Older T12 on a magnetic ballast

    is 144 W on the energy saving version and 192 W on a standard one

The tubes are only part of it. The ballast takes its cut and throws the rest off as heat.

What does L70 at 50,000 hours mean?

It means the fixture is expected to still deliver 70 percent of its original light output after 50,000 hours of use. It is a published depreciation curve, not a failure point. Fluorescent has the same fade and nobody publishes it, which is why a shop can be at half its design light level and everyone has stopped noticing.

Type A, Type B or Type C. Which LED tube should I use?

Type A runs on your existing ballast, so it is the fastest and the cheapest, and the ballast stays in there drawing power and waiting to fail. Type B removes the ballast and rewires the sockets, which is more labour and leaves nothing behind to break. Type C uses a remote driver, which is the most labour for the least gain over Type B on a retrofit. On 347 V, STANDATA 24-ECB-030 pushes you toward a complete new fixture instead of any of the three.

Do LED tubes work with occupancy sensors?

Usually, but compatibility depends on the specific tube and the specific sensor, and the manufacturers publish that. I check the product data before I order rather than after the sensor starts chattering.

Is 4000 K or 5000 K better?

4000 K where people sit and work, so offices, hallways and retail. 5000 K where you want contrast and alertness, so warehouses, shops, yards and parkades. Showrooms are a separate conversation because you are buying colour rendering, not colour temperature.

Why does cold matter in Edmonton?

Open fluorescent fixtures lose a large share of their output at low temperature. Loading docks, unheated shops, cold storage, parkades. If your dock has been getting dimmer every winter that is not the tubes wearing out, that is physics. LED runs slightly more efficiently cold.

Next step

Now put your own building in

The calculator uses every table on this page. It gives you a range instead of a number, and it shows you every assumption with the source beside it.

I do the walkdown myself. I meter a fixture, count what is actually up there, read your municipal lighting bylaw before I show up, and hand you a written scope with the option prices side by side. No pressure, and no rebate that does not exist.

Dmitry Naboka, Master Electrician #13824, 14 years in the trade

Next step

Book the walkdown

Free. About an hour.You get a written scope with the option prices side by side.

What I measure while I am there

  • 1

    I count the fixtures

  • 2

    I meter one

  • 3

    I read your municipal lighting bylaw before I show up

  • 4

    I confirm your supply voltage

  • 5

    I hand you a written scope with the option prices side by side

Every table on this page came from doing exactly this on real buildings.

Book it

Two fields to send it. I call you back myself, within 24 hours.

What kind of building?

Or call me directly, (780) 904-3462. No sales visit, no subcontractor. The Master Electrician who quotes it is the one who does it.

Honest quote in 24 hours